Tag Archives: marine iguana

Cruise Day Seven: Isla Santa Cruz

Friday 8th November 2013

Las Bachas

Today was the last day of the cruise. We had the earliest start of the week with a wet landing at 6am on Las Bachas, a beach on the north west coast of Isla Santa Cruz. It’s one of the sea turtles’ favourite nesting beaches and, I have to say, the turtles have excellent taste. The beach had velvety soft white sand like I’ve never felt before. It felt amazing under my feet. We walked along the beach from one lagoon to the next in search of flamingos, the first had none, the second had one. As we were walking to the third, we saw two flamingos flying from the lagoon we were heading to, towards the two we had just left! Still how often does one see flamingos flying? At the third lagoon there were four flamingos. We took our photos and headed back for our last breakfast on the boat.

Both Ismael and I were ready to leave the boat today. It was a great experience, but I was looking forward to having our time back to ourselves. No more itinerary, no more regimental meal times and, while it was fascinating, at this point I felt I had seen enough wild life for a while. The week of wondering through lava fields had not helped my swankle. Sad as it may sound, I was looking forward to having wifi, sat by the pier, sipping on some cheap and strong caipirinhas (unlike those on the boat). I was also looking forward to a good night of sleep back on terra firma.

Puerto Ayora

We had not booked our hotel for the next few nights and just turned up to one Ismael had found with relatively cheap private rooms, hoping for the best. It seemed to work out fine. We paid, went to the room, dumped our bags and I had a shower. I had noticed there were more tiny bugs wondering around the room than I was happy with, but when I mentioned it to Ismael he told me about some place he stayed in Mozambique with a rat running around the thatched roof and said he was not bothered with such small creatures (Ismael has asked me to add that he was bothered by the rat, in anycase that’s a story for another day).

After spending the afternoon out as planned we headed back to the room at which point for some reason I decided to inspect the bed. The bugs were everywhere, on the covers, under the covers, on the walls, on the furniture. At this point I freaked. The room is cheap but come on, surely when they say you get what you pay for, this is not what they mean?!

I went down to reception and tried to explain with hand gestures that there were small bugs crawling all over the room. What is Spanish for bugs and crawling? Michele Thomas hadn’t explained how to say those words. The lady came up to the room to look. On inspection, she said “oh, something didas”, squashed a couple with her fingers and said “I’ll see if we can change the sheets or if we have another room available” at which point I said with a look of dread on my face “another room please”.

I had already decided that I was not staying in that room. If there wasn’t another we would get our money back and go to the place we stayed before the cruise. Sharing a room with other people was preferable to sleeping in that bug-infested hole. Ismael said she must have read the Trip Advisor review written on my face, because when she returned she said she had upgraded us to a suite free of charge and apologised saying she felt really bad.

We took our stuff to the new room which was indeed much nicer. I inspected for bugs, the bed, the walls, the bathroom, the furniture – all clear. I noticed there were bugs crawling all over our things. I killed a few, there were too many. I went down to ask for bug spray for our bags, praying they had not settled inside them. We sprayed our things until we ran out of the stuff and afterwards sat down for 20 minutes trying to recover from the whole experience. Why were we travelling again? Was this normal? What if we had slept there and not noticed, they would have crawled right up into our nose, mouth, ears and… Ismael was laying down on the bed the whole time I was in the shower. Would we return to London with dreadlocks and headlice? What was the point of this trip anyway? What would it be like for me in the jungle?!

We decided to head back out to get some air. We went to the supermarket picked up some things and got an early night.

Cruise Day Six: Islas Santiago & Rabida

Thursday 7th November 2013

Puerto Egas – Isla Santiago

This morning we had a wet landing on the beach. Isla Santiago lies east of Isabela, north of Isla Santa Cruz.

The layers of volcanic ash were visible in the rocks around the beach. On the walk inland I managed to get some great shots of the Galápagos hawk, in particular a younger one – these have much lighter coloured feathers. We even caught a conflict between two hawks over territory.

We saw fur seals for the first time. There are two types of sea lions in Galápagos, Galápagos sea lions and Galápagos fur seals. Galápagos sea lions, although related to their larger Californian cousins, are a distinct species that breed exclusively on Galápagos but can also be found on Isla de la Plata (Ecuador). The Galápagos fur seals have relatives in Antarctica and are endemic to the islands.

We also saw yellow crowned night heron, marine iguanas, yellow warblers and interesting landscape where the sea had worn holes in the lava making hollow regions below.

Isla Rabida

This afternoon we had another wet landing on Rabida (most famous for its red beaches). We had a walk uphill where we were able to take in views over the ocean towards Santiago.

Today we went snorkling twice, both in the morning and afternoon. In addition to the sea turtles and weirdly coloured fish, we also got to swim with a few playful sea lions.

Cruise Day Five: Islas Fernandina & Isabela

Wednesday 6th November 2013

Espinoza Point – Isla Fernandina

In terms of seeing wildlife and unusual landscapes this morning’s walk was the best so far. The pangas dropped us on some lava rocks. It’s breeding season for the marine iguanas; on Fernandina they are everywhere. We even managed to catch a couple of males being territorial and having a tussle. They nod heads vigorously initially and, if that isn’t enough to ward off their adversary, they eventually butt heads.

We saw flightless cormorants, Galápagos hawks, a snake, a hermit crab, sea turtles on land (which is very rare as they only come on land to lay eggs), sea lions and Galápagos doves. Flightless cormorants have, through evolution, exchanged flight for improved swimming ability (they have muscular legs for paddling and tiny wings).

The colours of the landscape were vivid and contrasting. You could clearly see the material the beaches were made up of. The remains of various sea creatures lay all around, beige sea shells and deep burgundy sea urchin spikes.

Caleta Tagus – Isla Isabela

The afternoon walk was short and easy although I somehow managed to twist my swankle again on the way back down. This walk was about the landscape rather than the wild life. The pangas dropped us on the beach and from there we walked up the face of an inactive volcano for around 20 minutes in the heat of the afternoon sun. We were rewarded with stunning views of a crater lake on the way up. At the top it becomes apparent that it is actually a crater inside another crater which is rare to see.

Crossing the Equator

We watched the sunset from the upper deck of the boat again. The frigate birds liked flying alongside the moving boat and this time I managed to get a good picture. Travelling north we passed the equator, west of Isabela, at around 8pm and then again, east of Isabela, at 2am.

Cruise Day Three: Isla Isabela

Monday 4th November 2013

Tintoreras


The boat travelled overnight to Tintoreras on Isabela. After breakfast the pangas dropped us again on some lava rocks (no pier). On the way we saw some Galápagos penguins. The landscape was different to any we had seen before. The lava had dried in a way that meant it stuck out of the ground in strange sponge like formations. They were white on one side, where the wind had carried moisture and nutrients for lichen to grow, and black on the other side. The marine iguanas were well camouflaged against it and easy to miss.

Inland there was a fissure where white-tipped reef sharks had been trapped after the tide went out, allowing us to view them from the land. On the way back we caught a couple of sea lions chilling on a bouy.

Wetlands


On arrival at the wetlands we were greeted by sea lions relaxing in every way and place possible, under trees, on boats, on the pavement. One in particular crossed the road to come say hello and posed for the cameras. We got a bus to the giant tortoise centre and on the way passed a lagoon filled with flamingos. At the giant tortoise breeding centre there was a particularly friendly baby tortoise who, intrigued, marched right up to my camera lens.

Cruise Day Two: Isla Santa Cruz

Sunday 3rd November 2013

Ballena Bay (Whale Bay)

After a hearty breakfast at we jumped in the pangas to see what we could find on the coastline around the bay. On the way we saw a sting ray (no pic unfortunately). After seeing shop after shop with t-shirts exclaiming ‘I love boobies!’ above a pair of blue webbed feet we finally caught a glimpse of a few blue-footed boobies.

Later on in the morning we went snorkelling in the bay and saw sea turtles along with a whole host of weird and wonderfully coloured fish.

Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill)


The boat worked it’s way west along the coast to Dragon Hill (named after it’s most prolific resident, the land iguana). After lunch we jumped in the pangas to head to the island for a walk. Here there is no pier, the pangas dropped us on some lava rocks which sit alongside the white beach. Inland the earth was a deep rusty red colour which comes from the oxidised iron in the lava. Here I learned that the trees which looked lifeless on the way to Tortuga Bay were in fact not dead. They are deciduous trees called Palo Santo and appear silver-grey in the dry season and flourish with green leaves in the wet season. They produce a deep red-purple sap which makes them look almost like they are  bleeding and is used to make dye. I could only imagine how different the landscape would look in the wet season. On the way we came a across a lagoon with flamingos.

Galapagos is officially desert as it rains less than 200mm per annum here. There is only one island where fresh water can be reliably found year round, Floreana. Life on the islands has evolved to deal with the harsh environment. Giant tortoises can go for as long as 18 months without food or water, they hydrate themselves by eating the cactus which store water; marine iguanas drink sea water and ‘spit’ the salt from their nostrils.