Monday 18th November 2013
Ruta de las Cascadas
Our next adventure in Baños was the route of the waterfalls up to Machay. It’s a 25kmish route towards Puyo (entrance to the jungle) along which there are lots of waterfalls, the most impressive of which are the last two, Pailon del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron) in Rio Verde and Manantial Dorado (Golden Sping) in Machay. We rented a couple of mountain bikes with the intention of cycling the route, and on the way back jumping on one of the trucks which ferry cyclists back to Baños.
We had been told the route was downhill or flat all the way but, as we have been learning repeatedly on our trip, that doesn’t mean there aren’t lots of uphill sections. We cycled stopping to see the waterfalls from afar. Along the way we saw a zip-line through a canyon claiming to be the longest in Baños (a kilometre). Neither of us had ever done it before and so we figured why not. The scariest part was getting attached to the line, once you’re moving it’s pretty tranquil, especially because the line is relatively long. At some point you put your arms out to slow yourself down a little before reaching the end of the line. Neither of us tried to find out what happens if you don’t.
When we reached Paillon de Diablo, we parked the bikes and went on foot down to the waterfall. We walked a beautiful green, lush path. Along the way there were signs exclaiming that up ahead was evidence that god really did exist. As we got closer, there was a winding stone stairwell down to it, all the way you could see the water pelting downward.
At the bottom, we noticed a tiny cave with an arrow on a sign next to it saying “grieta al cielo” (which we now know translates to something like “fissure to heaven”). It was so small, one would have to get on all fours to get through it. The path led to behind the waterfall. We stood there for a while debating if we should venture further. Another couple arrived and did the same for a while and turned back. The tunnel was small, dark and frankly a bit scary (anyone seen The Descent?); just looking at it stimulated claustrophobia. After five minutes, we noticed a rather large gentleman waving happily from behind the waterfall, the other side of the tunnel. We figured if he could get through there so could we, and in we went!
After making it behind the waterfall and back again, we walked across a bridge from which you could see the point of intersection of the waterfall and another river with a sharp ridge between. It was both beautiful and aggressive at the same time. Paillon de Diablo was a great little adventure we had not expected at all.
We hiked back up to the bikes as quickly as we could, butt and legs aching. It was around 4.30pm and we wanted to make it to Machay (only another five minute cycle from there) and head back to Baños before sunset. When we got back to our bikes, a stranger asked how we were getting back to Baños. We said we were planning to get one of the trucks. He said there were no more that day and pointed to a bus which was driving off saying that was the last one. In a moment of sheer panic we cycled towards the bus, my breaks on the wrong side of the handlebars, and managed to stop it. The driver said there was no space for the bikes but Ismael managed to negotiate our way on.
We had a morning of zip-lining through the canyons planned for the next day and decided that after we would cycle the whole way to Machay, this time without stopping along the way. After parking the bikes, it was another hike down to the waterfall and then beyond. Lots of steep steps, then beautiful flower gardens followed by green tropical rocky forrest. Manantial Dorado was a different experience to Paillon del Diablo. The waterfall was thinner and there was a break in it, allowing us to jump in and cool off after our bike ride. Further down, the river meandered through big boulders forming pools along the way, eventually meeting a larger river at which point the path was cut off. We had been warned in Baños that getting in the water there was dangerous as the force of the current was too strong to not be swept away.
Zip-lining San Martin
I guess one zip-line just wasn’t enough 🙂 At San Martin we did two shorter zip-lines. In between there was a walk across the smallest bridge I’ve ever walked, followed by a hundred meter climb up a vertical cliff face.
I went ahead. The first zip line I was told to keep my arms beside me as the line had a break. You’re going pretty fast when you hit the break. The second zip-line I kept my arms out the whole way, again it was fast. This time, unexpectedly, I hit the end of the line and rolled backwards out into the canyon at a pretty decent pace and was reeled back in. Not a bad way to spend an hour.
Ramblers Rumblings 