Tag Archives: blue-footed boobie

Cruise Day Seven: Isla Santa Cruz

Friday 8th November 2013

Las Bachas

Today was the last day of the cruise. We had the earliest start of the week with a wet landing at 6am on Las Bachas, a beach on the north west coast of Isla Santa Cruz. It’s one of the sea turtles’ favourite nesting beaches and, I have to say, the turtles have excellent taste. The beach had velvety soft white sand like I’ve never felt before. It felt amazing under my feet. We walked along the beach from one lagoon to the next in search of flamingos, the first had none, the second had one. As we were walking to the third, we saw two flamingos flying from the lagoon we were heading to, towards the two we had just left! Still how often does one see flamingos flying? At the third lagoon there were four flamingos. We took our photos and headed back for our last breakfast on the boat.

Both Ismael and I were ready to leave the boat today. It was a great experience, but I was looking forward to having our time back to ourselves. No more itinerary, no more regimental meal times and, while it was fascinating, at this point I felt I had seen enough wild life for a while. The week of wondering through lava fields had not helped my swankle. Sad as it may sound, I was looking forward to having wifi, sat by the pier, sipping on some cheap and strong caipirinhas (unlike those on the boat). I was also looking forward to a good night of sleep back on terra firma.

Puerto Ayora

We had not booked our hotel for the next few nights and just turned up to one Ismael had found with relatively cheap private rooms, hoping for the best. It seemed to work out fine. We paid, went to the room, dumped our bags and I had a shower. I had noticed there were more tiny bugs wondering around the room than I was happy with, but when I mentioned it to Ismael he told me about some place he stayed in Mozambique with a rat running around the thatched roof and said he was not bothered with such small creatures (Ismael has asked me to add that he was bothered by the rat, in anycase that’s a story for another day).

After spending the afternoon out as planned we headed back to the room at which point for some reason I decided to inspect the bed. The bugs were everywhere, on the covers, under the covers, on the walls, on the furniture. At this point I freaked. The room is cheap but come on, surely when they say you get what you pay for, this is not what they mean?!

I went down to reception and tried to explain with hand gestures that there were small bugs crawling all over the room. What is Spanish for bugs and crawling? Michele Thomas hadn’t explained how to say those words. The lady came up to the room to look. On inspection, she said “oh, something didas”, squashed a couple with her fingers and said “I’ll see if we can change the sheets or if we have another room available” at which point I said with a look of dread on my face “another room please”.

I had already decided that I was not staying in that room. If there wasn’t another we would get our money back and go to the place we stayed before the cruise. Sharing a room with other people was preferable to sleeping in that bug-infested hole. Ismael said she must have read the Trip Advisor review written on my face, because when she returned she said she had upgraded us to a suite free of charge and apologised saying she felt really bad.

We took our stuff to the new room which was indeed much nicer. I inspected for bugs, the bed, the walls, the bathroom, the furniture – all clear. I noticed there were bugs crawling all over our things. I killed a few, there were too many. I went down to ask for bug spray for our bags, praying they had not settled inside them. We sprayed our things until we ran out of the stuff and afterwards sat down for 20 minutes trying to recover from the whole experience. Why were we travelling again? Was this normal? What if we had slept there and not noticed, they would have crawled right up into our nose, mouth, ears and… Ismael was laying down on the bed the whole time I was in the shower. Would we return to London with dreadlocks and headlice? What was the point of this trip anyway? What would it be like for me in the jungle?!

We decided to head back out to get some air. We went to the supermarket picked up some things and got an early night.

Cruise Day Four: Isla Isabela

Tuesday 5th November 2013

Moreno Point

This morning was the hardest walk so far, especially for my swankle. Moreno point is a massive lava field created by the volcano Cerro Azul over ten thousand years ago. It consists of uneven rocks and huge cavernous areas where the bottom of the structure has collapsed from the weight of the lava above, making it difficult terrain to navigate. Inland it looks brown and lifeless other than the few and far between lava cactus, which in itself is a sight to see. But near water, either on the coastline or in pools (where the sea had found its way through cracks and crevices), we did find life. Crabs feeding off algae, blue-footed boobies nesting, a flamingo and some interesting plant life.

The Galápagos Islands are the result of a volcanic hotspot. They are part of a large raised platform on the Nazca plate and at the confluence of three oceanic currents which both give and take life away. The islands are on a huge conveyor belt moving east/southeast by approximately 2.5 inches every year (incredibly fast by geological standards), emerging from the sea in the west and submerging in the east. The youngest and most volcanically active island (Isla Fernandina, less than a million years old) is in the west while the oldest (Isla Espanola, around 3.5 million years old) is in the southeast. The most fertile islands are in the middle (Isabela, Santiago, Santa Cruz).

Urbina bay

In the afternoon we visited Urbina Bay where we were able to see giant tortoises and land iguanas in the wild. The beaches here are black. Galapagos has a beautiful and bizarre array of different coloured beaches, white (Isla Santa Cruz, Tortuga Bay), yellow-orange (Isla Bartolome), black (here!), red (Isla Rabida) and green (Isla Floreana, Punta Comorant). The black beaches are the youngest, composed of basalt. The beach in Tortuga Bay consists mostly of quartz (silicone dioxide), while the red beaches of Rabida consist of oxidised iron (rust). The green beaches on Floreana consist of large amounts of mineral olivine which has been naturally filtered out of the basalt by the sea.

Sunset

We watched the sunset from the boat.

Cruise Day Two: Isla Santa Cruz

Sunday 3rd November 2013

Ballena Bay (Whale Bay)

After a hearty breakfast at we jumped in the pangas to see what we could find on the coastline around the bay. On the way we saw a sting ray (no pic unfortunately). After seeing shop after shop with t-shirts exclaiming ‘I love boobies!’ above a pair of blue webbed feet we finally caught a glimpse of a few blue-footed boobies.

Later on in the morning we went snorkelling in the bay and saw sea turtles along with a whole host of weird and wonderfully coloured fish.

Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill)


The boat worked it’s way west along the coast to Dragon Hill (named after it’s most prolific resident, the land iguana). After lunch we jumped in the pangas to head to the island for a walk. Here there is no pier, the pangas dropped us on some lava rocks which sit alongside the white beach. Inland the earth was a deep rusty red colour which comes from the oxidised iron in the lava. Here I learned that the trees which looked lifeless on the way to Tortuga Bay were in fact not dead. They are deciduous trees called Palo Santo and appear silver-grey in the dry season and flourish with green leaves in the wet season. They produce a deep red-purple sap which makes them look almost like they are  bleeding and is used to make dye. I could only imagine how different the landscape would look in the wet season. On the way we came a across a lagoon with flamingos.

Galapagos is officially desert as it rains less than 200mm per annum here. There is only one island where fresh water can be reliably found year round, Floreana. Life on the islands has evolved to deal with the harsh environment. Giant tortoises can go for as long as 18 months without food or water, they hydrate themselves by eating the cactus which store water; marine iguanas drink sea water and ‘spit’ the salt from their nostrils.