Monthly Archives: September 2015

Four days in Venice

Sunday 21st June 2015

Welcome to Venice

We arrived in Venice by train just before dusk. We weren’t there long before the question arose, is Venice the most beautiful city we’ve been to? Venice really is like no other city I’ve ever been to. Our evening stroll through Dorsoduro and San Marco after dark was incredibly romantic. The place was filled with street musicians and painters. One on the Ponte dell’Accademia was playing medieval sounding music.

Day Two

Day two was spent mostly exploring the Palazzo Ducale which is absolutely freaking massive! Followed by a walk around San Polo after which we came across yet another leaning bell tower, this time that of Santo Stephano. So that’s four we’ve seen on this trip so far. Turns out there are three leaning towers in Pisa, three in Venice, two in Bologna and that’s not all of them; the world appears to be filled with leaning towers and on the list is our very own Big Ben which at it’s highest point leans half a metre out of alignment!

Day Three

Having put off going up the Campanile di San Marco the day before in the hope of better weather, it was now or never. It was pretty well timed, we headed to Caffe Florian for Lunch straight after. During the meal, the heavens opened up, clearing the piazza and filling the surrounding porticos.

After lunch we visited the Basilica di San Marco. The area around the external walls was flooded as a result of the heavy rain and ramps had to be put down for people to be able to get in. The Basilica inside was like no other church I’ve ever seen. There were eastern influences all around and the amount of gold was bewildering.

We decided to cut the day short after visiting the Accademia. Though it stopped raining the weather was probably the worst we had for the whole trip.

Day Four

The weather today was glorious and entirely compensated for the previous day. We started the day with a guided tour of the city which was filled with interesting facts about the place. When we arrived we couldn’t understand how Google Maps knew where we were staying, given that the address was a name and number and the street name was not featured anywhere. Turns out that addresses in Venice are made up of the name of the sestiere and a single number. There are only six sestiere in Venice, Cannaregio, Castello, Santa Croce, San Polo, San Marco and Dorsoduro. There are thousands of properties in a given sestiere. The numbering is ordered by adjacent properties rather than distance along a street so when you come to intersections of streets the numbers of the properties can be thousands apart! This arrangement is apparently courtesy of the Austrians.

After the tour we walked to the most eastern tip of Dorsoduro. From here you have an almost 360 degree view of Venice, stretching from the northern edge of Dorsoduro, across the Grand Canal, to San Marco, then Giudecca, down the Canale della Giudecca and finally to the southern edge of Dorsoduro. From here we headed back to Rio San Barnaba for a gondola ride. The Peggy Guggenheim collection was fantastic, perhaps the most I’ve enjoyed a gallery in years.

Farewell Venice

Relatively speaking we were in Venice for quite a while but not nearly long enough. It is a beautiful city (perhaps the most beautiful in the world) with so much to see. We had wanted to visit the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello around Venice but did not have time. Perhaps one day we will make it back. On the plane we were treated to a great view of Venice, with it’s silhouette clearly visible 🙂

Bologna

Saturday 20th June 2015

Day One

We arrived in Bologna in the afternoon with plenty of time for a wander before dinner. We didn’t have much idea of what to expect of the city before arriving, apart from good food, so getting to know it was a pleasant surprise, especially as we had left Florence a little earlier than we might have, had we not booked our train in advance.

We weren’t in the city long before coming across the imposing shadows of the Torri degli Asinelli e Garisenda. Apparently Pisa doesn’t have the only leaning tower in Italy. Perhaps because the two towers are so close together I found walking past them decidedly unnerving, they genuinely look like they might topple at any moment.

When travelling it’s easy to visit church after church and eventually feel like they all look the same but surprisingly it’s hard to feel that way in Italy. San Petroni, the unfinished church was oddly mesmerising. Its partially painted interior and half marbled exterior were both beautiful and tragic.

Nothing characterises the streets of Bologna more than the portricos which can be found everywhere. The most beautiful had painted ceilings. We ended our day with a lovely meal at Trattoria Oberdan and in particular a creme caramel so good we ordered a second after getting the bill! 🙂

Day Two

Our second day in Bologna had yet more pleasant surprises in store. Bologna is home to the oldest university in Europe and we ended up spending a few hours wandering around the Archiginnasio di Bologna which houses the Teatro Anatomico, a pretty unique place. After an awesome late lunch/early dinner at L’Archimboldo, we headed back to the hotel to grab our baggage and jumped on a train to Venice.

Montepulciano, Pienza & Montalcino

Friday 19th June 2015

On our final day exploring Tuscany we spent our time in wine country. Both Montepulciano and Montalcino have their own brands of wine, Vino Nobile and Brunello respectively. The latter is one of Italy’s finest wines and while visiting the town we took the opportunity to enjoy a wine tasting at the Enoteca in the Fortezza. Among the wines we tasted were a 2011 Sassicaia, 2010 Siro Pacenti, 2010 Tassi, 2010 Cupano, 2010 Fortezza, 2009 Fosso Buio, 2006 Terre Nere and 2001 Poggio al Vento.

Montepulciano is one of the highest towns in Tuscany. The scenery between the towns today was the most picturesque of all the days, all hues of green, gold and terracotta. The day ended at Montalcino with a gorgeous sunset before driving back to Florence for our last night there.

San Gimignano & Siena

Thursday 18th June 2015

Today’s towns were the most beautiful and characterful so far. San Gimignano is famous for 13 towers, one or more of which can be seen from wherever in the town you are. The tallest of all the towers, Torre Grossa, can be accessed from the Museo Civico giving views over the city and beyond. Siena’s skyline is dominated by the Duomo which is considered to be one of Italy’s finest cathedrals and wandering around it, it’s clear why.

Cortona & Arrezo

Wednesday 17th June 2015

Our first stop on the Tuscan trail was Cortona. We drove up a hill and were able to find parking not far from the entrance to the city. Cortana is one of the smaller towns. Larger towns like Arrezo have car parks at the bottom of the hill and escalators to take you up to the town. Inside the walls the towns are mostly traffic free. They are restricted traffic zones with hefty fines for those entering by car without a permit. The towns of Tuscany were all once owned by wealthy families which were at war with each other, hence the walls, towers and various fortifications.

The towns themselves are charming and full of character. You only need to walk of down an alley off the larger streets to get wonderful views over green landscape. The buildings scream history. They towns are touristy but the lack of traffic makes a huge difference to how they feel, relaxed rather than busy.

The views on the way down the hills as you leave the towns, especially on the smaller roads at times look like paintings of what you imagine the Tuscan countryside to look like from the movies, not quite real.