Saturday 25th January 2014
Refugio Grey – Refugio Paine Grande
The next morning we got ready and headed out to go kayaking. The weather was windy and so we were told we would have to go out each with an instructor. We got kitted out and headed towards the glacier. Paddling was hard against the choppy water, the waves were strong and kicking the water up at us while we paddled. We passed right between the icebergs floating on the lake getting a good look at the colours of them. The blue colour is apparently a result of the oxygen/hydrogen bonds absorbing light in the red end of the visible light spectrum (the same reason water is blue). We got to the east bank and sat for a while taking in the view. The lake was grey green here. After some tea and a snack we headed back.
The return journey back to Refugio Paine Grande was the home stretch. We had taken five hours instead of the estimated three and a half on the way to Refugio Grey so on the way back we were on a bit of a mission. Including a stop for a chat with a Brazilian couple we had met at Refugio Los Cuernos we made the journey in two hours forty five minutes. Well in time to have a couple of beers before catching the boat across Lago Pehoe and out of the park. When the boat came there were too many people and we were left wondering if we would make it back to Puerto Natales that day. Thankfully the boat came back and buses waited for the second run.
After the walk we thought our time in the park was over but it wasn’t, the boat trip across the lake was beautiful. It actually worked out awesome that we caught the second boat rather than the first. We arrived just as the sun was setting. The view of Cerro Paine Grande, Los Cuernos, the colour of the water, the reflection of the sun and right at the end the Salto Grande waterfall – gorgeous!
We made it back just in time to get dinner with Lukas and Sylvie, a Swiss couple we met at Refugio Grey the night before. They were a couple of hiking superstars compared to us. They had actually trekked to the point where we got the bus from rather than getting the boat and had trekked another two and a half hours north of Refugio Grey the previous day. After dinner Ismael and I were finished. Our feet were knackered, my swankle was stiff and Ismael’s knee had seen better days. Those guys were full of energy and up for a night out! We had a bus to catch at 7am the next day so unfortunately were in no shape to spend anymore time on our feet. Thankfully we had a nice hostel for the night.
Perito Moreno versus Glacier Grey
After Perito Moreno I imagined it would be hard to impress. We had read many forums, comparing the two glaciers and stating preferences, before we had seen either. The two experiences are completely different. The vantage points from which you could see Perito Moreno are great, the balconies provided an excellent view which gave a good impression of the scale of it. Unlike Perito Moreno, Glacier Grey is receeding, this means the front of it is much more tapered. Perito Moreno stands a good 75 metres tall at the front. The accessibility of Perito Moreno meant that we were able to take a boat across the lake getting really close to the front to see the structure of the ice and even go for a walk on it. What makes Glacier Grey special is the fact you have to work for it. We didn’t do the O but we spoke to enough people to understand that the route further north which followed the edge of the glacier was exhilarating. People spoke of the cold, the wind, a rickety bridge across a huge crack in the earth and a ladder up a sheer cliff face along the route. I could see how the combination of the effort over the course of the trek, adrenaline and the view at the different milestones would be a very unique experience. For anyone who does the W and doesn’t venture further north I would say Perito Moreno is definitely the more impressive of the two.
Inca Trail versus the W Trek
So which was harder? The Inca Trail or the W trek? On the Inca Trail there was no choice but to camp but also the terrain and altitude were a greater factor in the difficulty of the trek. The W trek was longer but the path more undulating rather than having huge upward or downward sections. The fact that you don’t need to camp and get a hot shower and meal every night and don’t have to deal with the weather if it rains or is cold makes a huge difference. That said, while I thought the W was easier Ismael thought the Inca Trail was easier so I guess it’s debatable.
Ramblers Rumblings 